Part 1: Why Yamaguchi Prefecture Should Be High on Your Japan Travel List

As we strolled through the streets of Yamaguchi City and its neighboring hot spring town, Yuda Onsen, in late 2024, we were approached several times by university students conducting surveys. They wanted to know how we, obvious gaijin, had heard of Yamaguchi City and whether we were aware of the New York Times article that featured the city on its coveted “52 Places to Go in 2024” list.

We were indeed aware—that’s exactly why we were there. Craig Mod, a writer, photographer, and longtime Tokyo resident, had praised this modest city of 190,000 on Honshu’s western tip, securing it the third spot on the list, right after Paris. Mod’s influence is no small thing; his 2023 recommendation, Morioka, had ranked second the previous year. Inspired by the article and intrigued by Mod’s enthusiasm, we decided that Yamaguchi City’s time had come—for us, at least.

Tourism to Yamaguchi City—and indeed the entire prefecture—has been increasing steadily, spurred in part by Mod’s praise. “Yamaguchi is often called ‘The Kyoto of the West,’ although it’s much more interesting than that—and it suffers from considerably less ‘tourism pollution.’ Let me be clear: I’m not saying Yamaguchi City is more interesting than Kyoto, but rather that it’s more interesting than simply reducing it to ‘The Kyoto of the West.’”

To get a complete handle on this comparison, it’s worth noting that historically, Yamaguchi City was modeled on Kyoto. In fact, 500 years ago, it was a larger and far more vibrant center than it is today, so it’s safe to say that Yamaguchi City is making a comeback.

Mod’s article described the city, nestled between the Inland and Japan seas, as “lean,” “walkable,” and “weirdly delightful,” with “a vibrant sense of life being lived as you walk its streets.” Yet, what truly captivated him was not just Yamaguchi’s physical charm but its human element: a “warm community,” thoughtful infrastructure, and the promise of a “good, full life on a human scale.” His ability to converse in fluent Japanese and bond with some of Yamaguchi's interesting citizens gave him a leg up over most tourists who likely won't feel the same warm bonhomie.

Our exposure to Yamaguchi City was shorter and shallower than Mod’s, just one part of our driving circumnavigation of Yamaguchi Prefecture as a whole. We had more opportunity to do city sightseeing in our rental car than to rub shoulders with its citizens, so with the exception of one particularly dynamic street framed with dazzling yellow gingko trees, upscale stores, and vibrant life, we admit to being somewhat less captivated by Yamaguchi City than Mod.

Yuda Onsen

On the other hand, other venues and experiences in Yamaguchi Prefecture repeatedly left us thrilled.

If you’re excited about immersing yourself in Japanese culture, pun intended, a trip to neighboring Yuda Onsen, Yamaguchi Prefecture’s popular onsen town, provides abundant relaxation experiences, with ample opportunity to bathe your feet, relax your body, smooth your skin and sooth your soul. With over 2,000 tons of soft, alkaline water flowing from its springs daily, a dip in these healing waters does more than refresh—it helps alleviate various aches and pains while leaving your skin luxuriously silky.

Yuda Onsen’s history dates back to the second year of the Shoji era (1200), when its curative waters were first documented in ancient texts. Legend has it that a wounded white fox discovered the springs and was miraculously healed, a story that remains central to the town’s identity.

Today, references to this mythical creature are scattered throughout the area, from charming post boxes with fox motifs to the towering fox statue (a whopping 8.2 meters or 27 feet tall!) that watches over Yuda Onsen Station.

In addition to its many onsen, Yuda Onsen boasts six covered public foot baths―called ashiyu― where you can rest your weary legs outdoors free of charge. They are open from early morning until late at night, and each provides foot-soakers with a slightly different experience, even while their roofs protect visitors from inclement weather.

Although Yuda Onsen itself may not win any beauty contests, its convenient location makes it an ideal base for exploring Yamaguchi Prefecture’s stunning attractions.

In and Around Yamaguchi City

Yamaguchi Prefecture is a great area to hone your Japanese driving skills, with several easy-driving loops that take you and your rental car around Yamaguchi city and on leisurely day trips to a variety of regional attractions, some popular and busy, many mercifully far less traveled.

Before you head out of Yamaguchi City, you may want to squeeze in a quick visit to the striking Xavier Memorial Church, a decidedly un-Japanese looking triangular edifice with its twin towers and interior stained-glass windows that purportedly incorporate “light,” “water” and “tent” motifs in their design. The church was built to commemorate the 400th anniversary of St. Francis Xavier’s visit to Yamaguchi, and it is a source of local pride, regardless of one’s religious leanings.

Once you’re on the road, everyone’s “must see” list includes the iconic Ruriko-ji Temple and its five-story pagoda,built around 1442. The Pagoda is considered one of the most beautiful in Japan and is designated a National Treasure. It is currently undergoing an extensive roof renovation that will keep the building entirely shrouded in scaffolding and opaque sheeting through March, 2026.

Rurikoji is still worth a visit, however, if not for the views of the pagoda itself (featured on millions of postcards, replicas, refrigerator magnets and picture books) then for the Main Hall, museum and temple grounds that create a place of pride for Mizukake Jizo (Water-Pouring Guardian). It is customary for worshippers to pour water over these guardian statues in the hope their wishes will come true.

Adjacent to Rurikoji, you will find well-preserved burial mounds called kofun tucked into a large grove . These mounds, known as the Ouchi Clan Mausoleum, contain the graves of members of a powerful family that ruled the region during the Muromachi period.

Address:7-1 Kozan-cho, Yamaguchi City

Hours:

Temple Grounds: Open year-round, accessible 24 hours a day. (Note: The five-storied pagoda is currently closed for renovations.)
Ruriko-ji Temple Museum: Open daily from 9:00 AM to 5:00 PM

Joei-ji Temple and Sesshū Garden

Topping our list of personal off-the-beaten-track favorites is the exquisite Joei-ji Temple and Sesshutei garden, nationally designated as both an historical site and a place of scenic beauty (especially during spring blossoming and autumn bright-leaf seasons).

At the temple’s southern end is the Nanmei Garden, a traditional―and exceptional―dry landscape garden. Visitors then walk through the temple itself, which features several rooms of magnificent painted panels, and then find themselves overlooking the almost unbelievably beautiful Sesshutei garden.

Master painter Sesshū Tōyō, one of the greatest artists in Japanese history, was asked to design the garden about 600 years ago during the Muromachi period, and it is famous for its resemblance to Sesshu’s landscape paintings. The garden features a “stone waterfall” cascading down its far end and a footpath that weaves around copses of trees and allows a variety of distinctive vantage points.

The centerpiece of the garden is a pond shaped like the kanji character for heart.

We visited this garden in December, when, to our enormous surprise, the trees were still ablaze with bright yellows and oranges, creating a truly transformative experience.

An even more striking surprise highlighted our visit to Joei-ji, and we have described it at length in another of our posts, “YCAM Interlab’s Forest Symphony.”

Address: 2001-1 Miyanoshimo, Yamaguchi, 753-0011

Hours:

April to November: 8:00 AM to 5:00 PM
December to February: 8:00 AM to 4:30 PM

Savoring Danger: The Art of Eating Fugu in Yamaguchi

Yamaguchi is famous for outstanding food and we certainly tried as many dishes as we could. Our culinary goals included eating Yamaguchi's iconic dish: fugu, commonly known as pufferfish or blowfish.

Fugu carries a reputation for being dangerous because it contains a toxin said to be 1,200 times more lethal than cyanide, with no known antidote. Despite its perilous nature, fugu has been a part of Japanese cuisine since the Jomon period, over 10,000 years ago. Archaeological sites in Yamaguchi Prefecture have even uncovered fugu bones, evidence of its long-standing presence in local diets.

However, this prized fish hasn’t always been welcomed at the table. During the Edo period (1603–1868), fugu consumption was banned by the shogunate after several samurai succumbed to its deadly toxin. The ban was lifted in 1888, marking fugu’s transformation into a highly coveted gourmet delicacy, as only expert chefs with rigorous training and licensing could prepare the potentially lethal dish safely.

Today, Yamaguchi is synonymous with exceptional fugu, often considered the best in Japan. We had the pleasure of savoring this delicacy as sashimi, sliced exquisitely thin. The delicate flavor and unique texture of the fugu, paired with the thrill of its storied history, made for a delicious and an unforgettable culinary experience.

Where to Stay

We recommend basing your Yamaguchi Prefecture stay in Yuda Onsen because it is near the Shin-Yamaguchi shinkansen station and it offers a broad variety of accommodations, with varying price points and levels of luxury (Have your translation app handy, however, because ―Mod’s article notwithstanding―gaijin tourists are still more the exception than the rule in Yamaguchi Prefecture, and the impeccably polite service at most hotels is often conducted primarily in Japanese).

Our personal favorite accommodation is the astoundingly beautiful Kokian, located just down the Yuda Onsen’s main street from the Nakahara Memorial Museum and Inoue Park and public footbath. Hidden behind a tall, protective wall, Kokian resembles a small local temple―until you step inside.

With its elegant dark wood common areas and restaurant framing a large central courtyard, Kokian bathes guests in serene luxury, and in addition to its main onsen, each room has its own private outdoor hot bath. The cuisine is equally extraordinary.