top of page
Writer's pictureBy Zen Gaijin

Iki: Exploring the Island of the Gods

Updated: 3 days ago

In a country with more than 14,000 islands, how do you select just one that will be a memorable headliner on your next Japan itinerary? In our case, we found one that really filled the bill and that has a variety of unique attributes―Iki Island, which remains one of our favorite islands in all of Japan. This remarkable island in the Tsushima Strait offers a striking combination of historical depth, natural beauty, and unforgettable cuisine, making it a splendid choice for travelers seeking an authentic Japanese island experience.


Geographical Profile

Located north of Nagasaki's mainland between Kyushu and South Korea, Iki Island spans approximately ten and a half miles (17 km) north to south and a little over nine miles (15 km) east to west. Its landscape is characterized by gently rolling hills, with Mount Takanotsuji reaching a modest 212 meters—still high enough to offer panoramic views of Iki Island's lush terrain.

Despite its remote and often pastoral feel, Iki Island is easily accessible. Travelers can reach the island by a 30-minute flight from Nagasaki Airport or by ferry from Fukuoka's Hakata Port, with travel times ranging from one to two and a half hours. Once you’re there, it’s easy to rent a car, an option we heartily recommend. Driving yourself is a terrific way to get around the island and sample Iki’s diverse charms and vistas.

Historical and Religious Significance

Iki's history is remarkably deep, with human habitation dating back to the Japanese Paleolithic era (40,000 – 10,000 B.C.). Archaeological artifacts from the Jomon, Yayoi, and Kofun periods have been discovered, providing a continuum of discovery for the island's rich cultural heritage. In Japanese historic mythology, Iki is described as the fifth island created in Japan, which enhances its mystical allure.

Iki also boasts an extraordinary spiritual landscape, featuring over 150 registered Shinto shrines. This high concentration of sacred sites has earned the island the reputation of being a "power spot" in Japanese culture and religious life. In addition to its inventory of spiritual edifices, visitors can explore fascinating cultural venues like the jizo statues—small stone figures believed to protect women and children—and such unique geographic landmarks as Saruiwa―the distinctive Monkey Rock.

Natural Attractions…and Many Others

Iki Island also is a paradise for nature and beach lovers, with clear blue waters and white sandy beaches supporting numerous activities, from surfing at Kiyoshihama and Ohama beaches to diving at Nishikihama. The island’s dolphin park and the Yunomoto Hot Spring village add to its array of diverse traveler experiences.


With so much to explore and experience, let us share our Iki Island Top Ten Unique Cultural Experiences:


1. Saruiwa (Monkey Rock)

The legend of Iki floating between Japan, China, and the Korean Peninsula before being anchored by "heavenly pillars" adds a touch of mythical charm to the archipelago’s already captivating western coast.


You can still see some of these heavenly pillars today, like Saruiwa or “Monkey Rock,” which juts 135 feet (45 meters) out of the ocean. A natural rock formation creating a profile that resembles a sitting monkey, Saruiwa is a must-see for hikers and nature lovers.


2. Harahoge Jizo – Guardians of the Sea

The Harahoge Jizō is a group of guardian deities made of stone and placed in the sea at Yahataura, the hometown of Iki's ama―traditional female fisher folk who specialize in diving. Partially submerged at high tide, these six guardian deities create an air of melancholy as they gaze silently out across the ocean.



Reflecting Iki’s deep maritime culture and traditions, the Jizo symbolize protection and serve as a memorial for those whose lives connect them to the sea: fishermen and local ama who have perished, as well as the souls of the whales that Iki’s whalers have hunted.



3. Archaeological Treasures: Kofun Tombs

Iki Island boasts an extraordinary concentration of ancient kofun, with 280 such burial mounds dotting its landscape. These tombs, constructed between the 6th and 7th centuries, represent a remarkable 60% of all kofun found in Nagasaki Prefecture.

The kofun on Iki are not merely archaeological curiosities, but also provide a window into a pivotal period of Japanese history, offering powerful insights into the island’s role in ancient East Asian geopolitics. As international relations in East Asia grew tense during the late 6th century and relations between the Japanese kingdom of Wakoku and Korean states like Silla and Goguryeo deteriorated, Iki's chieftains and elite families began constructing these monumental tombs in the island's central region, and excavated artifacts suggest that Iki's influential residents maintained international connections.


Stone chambers within these tombs have yielded a wealth of funereal goods, now designated as Important Cultural Properties of Japan. These artifacts not only indicate the high status of the tombs' occupants, but also reflect Iki's significance in the broader region.


4. A Natural Wonder: Tatsunoshima Island

A small, uninhabited island off the coast of Iki, Tatsunoshima is known for its pristine beaches and crystal-clear waters. Though it’s a short boat ride away from the main island, it feels like a remote paradise, and we recommend that you take a day trip to discover your own slice of secluded beauty.

There is a swimming area on Tatsunoshima, a stunning white sand beach curved in the shape of a bow and extending out to a particularly clear area of sea. This island is readily accessible by boat, and the pleasure boats that take you around the island also operate outside the summer season, giving you the opportunity to savor the island’s striking cliffs, caves, crystal clear waters, and other natural features.

Tatsunoshima is located a mile and half (2km) from the northwest tip of Iki Island. We took a 40-minute pleasure boat tour from Katsumoto Port to circumnavigate the island, and the kids on our cruise were particularly fascinated by the currents, caves, and recreational fishermen who crawl up the cliffs to cast their lures into the surf. This boat tour is available six times a day from March to November.


5. Yunomoto Onsen

Yunomoto Onsen, a true treasure on Iki Island, offers a serene and intimate hot spring experience. This village boasts fourteen diverse hot spring facilities, each drawing from its own unique mineral-rich water source.  Our favorite aspect was taking in the stunning views of the surrounding islands against the backdrop of the setting sun from our perch in the open-air baths.

Unlike popular onsen destinations such as Kinosaki, Beppu, or Hakone, Yunomoto Onsen provides a more authentic and peaceful retreat. Here, visitors can truly unwind and connect with nature, experiencing a traditional aspect of Japanese culture away from the crowds.


Legend has it that Yunomoto Onsen was discovered approximately 1,700 years ago and was used for the first baths of imperial babies. Accordingly, popular myth holds that visitors to this particular onsen visitors may be blessed with children.


6. Kojima Shrine

Kojima Shrine is a unique and mystical Shinto shrine located on a tiny islet in Uchime Bay, off the coast of Iki Island. The shrine becomes accessible only during low tide. When the tide recedes, a sandy path emerges from the sea, creating a walkable route to the shrine's torii gate.  The window for visiting is limited to about an hour before and after low tide

Kojima Shrine is considered a powerful spiritual site:

  • The entire islet is designated as sacred ground.  Visitors are strictly prohibited from taking anything from the island, even a small twig or stone, due to its sacred status.

  • It's believed to be a place where spiritual energy flows, brought closer to the gods by the gravitational pull of the sun and moon.


7. Ikikoku Museum

Renowned architect Kisho Kurokawa took advantage of the landscape when designing the Iki City Ikikoku Museum, which appears to be dug into the side of one distinctive hill and float gracefully over the countryside. Opened in 2010 (sadly, Kurokawa died in 2007, before it was completed), the building is located in Iki’s southeastern corner, about a twenty-minute drive south of Ashibe Port. With grass growing over the top of much of the structure, the museum would almost be invisible but for the lighthouse-like observation tower that juts out from its top and, on a clear day, offers views over most of the Island.

The museum houses fascinating prehistoric artifacts. Iki Island flourished in trade, as described in a Chinese history book written nearly 2,000 years ago, and the museum exhibits a number of artifacts excavated from various archaeological sites around the island. Such artifacts are abundant because, given its location between the Chinese mainland and Japan, Iki has long been a stop-off point for traders, and a vibrant human community has existed there for at least 4,000 years.


One of the museum’s key attractions is a series of highly-detailed scale reconstructions of an Iki village during the Yayoi Period (200 B.C. to A.D. 250). Some of the diorama models are many meters long, and― often in humorous detail― they depict such activities as fishing, trading, playing, hunting and fortunetelling, and, in the case of the children, getting into mischief. Many of the characters in the diorama move at the push of a button and, extraordinarily, all of their faces have been modeled on the faces of contemporary Iki residents.


The museum also houses many artifacts from the slightly later Kofun Period (250-552), which were unearthed at large burial mounds (the kofun described above) that dot the Iki landscape. These include impressive ornaments for saddles, bridles and stirrups, and also decorative sword handles.

Especially popular with visitors is the experience corner where they can touch earthenware and stoneware used by people at that time and a theater where they can learn about the history of Iki. Trying the quizzes at the huge diorama or doing a simulated earthenware excavation is especially fun for the kids, even as the adults learn about Iki’s history. The museum has a convenient restaurant with a variety of reasonably-priced menu items, fronting a sunny outdoor patio.


8. Wartime Heritage: Kurosaki Battery Site

The site of the giant gun battery near Saruiwa (Monkey Rock) remains a popular tourist destination on Iki Island. This giant World War II gun emplacement has been called the largest in Asia.


Built to target enemy vessels passing through the Tsushima Strait during the war, it later was dismantled without ever having been fired. It remains a chilling artifact of the war years, with only its original site remaining. Still, if you visit the site, you will be amazed at the battery's size. Photos of the battery when it was in place are available at a nearby souvenir shop.


9. Iki: a Culinary Explorer's Paradise
The Iki Tomato – A Sought-After Delicacy

Understandably, most gourmet comments in travel blog posts about Iki Island tend to focus on its splendid fish and beef. But the item that sent our taste buds into ecstasy was a tomato, an exclusive variety celebrated for its exceptional sweetness. It is cultivated solely on Iki Island, and to preserve its unique traits―and scarcity―the tomato seeds are not sold outside the island, making these tomatoes a rare find in Japan, much less in other countries.

Iki’s fertile volcanic soil and its warm summers combined with mild winters create ideal conditions for growing these luscious tomatoes. Although smaller than some larger varieties found elsewhere, Iki tomatoes compensate with their vibrant red color, firm texture, and incredible sweetness, often likened to fruit. We can attest that once you've tried an Iki tomato, you'll have a hard time going back to more mundane varieties. These tomatoes are a source of pride on the island, and we recommend seeking them out when you visit Iki.


Iki Beef – Wagyu for the Cognoscenti

Ask the finest chefs in Japan about Iki Beef, and you'll witness a reverent pause, a moment of worship, so to speak. They’ll close their eyes, take a deep breath, and with a soft sigh, say, 'Ah, Iki Beef,' as they call a peak culinary experience to mind—a taste that transcends the ordinary and lingers in memory.

Today, a lot of Wagyu beef draws mixed reviews for its relative fattiness. Iki Beef, on the other hand, is the star of Japan's beef market, produced exclusively on the island, with only 900 cattle shipped to market annually. Derived from Japanese Black Cattle (Kuroge Washu), this rare wagyu stands out for its exceptional quality and outstanding flavor without all the fattiness of many types of wagyu. This beef's distinctive character comes from the island's pristine environment. Cattle are raised on lush pastures, enjoying clean air, pure water, and a mild climate, resulting in healthier, stress-free animals.


Unlike other wagyu varieties, Iki Beef offers a firmer texture with delicate marbling, less fat, providing a satisfying balance between tenderness and substance.


For wagyu connoisseurs seeking a unique culinary experience, Iki Beef represents the pinnacle of Japanese cattle farming—a must-try delicacy that captures the essence of the island's agricultural excellence.


The Ocean's Gold: Discovering Iki's Exquisite Sea Urchin

Iki Island is renowned for its sweet, high-quality sea urchins, harvested by local ama divers using traditional free diving methods. These sea urchins thrive on nutrient-rich seaweed, which imparts a firm texture and natural sweetness. While Hokkaido is often celebrated for its sea urchins, those who experience the exquisite flavors of Iki's uni understand why it is regarded as the finest in Japan.


Around 300 “ama,” professional female divers, gather sea urchins during the fishing season from mid-April to mid-October. Their time-honored techniques allow them to dive down 20 meters (about 60 feet) without oxygen tanks, with each dive lasting up to two minutes.


Equipped with a hook for cutting seaweed and a chisel-like tool for lifting the urchins off the rocks, an experienced ama can collect as many as ten sea urchins in a single dive. They store their catch in a lifebuoy with a net as they work beneath the waves.


Typically, ama divers complete two dives a day, bringing ashore some of the finest sea urchins you'll ever taste—rich, buttery, and melt-in-your-mouth delicious.


10. Iki’s Renowned Shochu Breweries

Iki is famous as the birthplace of Mugi (barley-based) Shochu liquor. Iki's Seven Famous Distilleries make a whopping 107 types of Mugi Shochu!

Visitors are welcome to tour the distilleries, explore the distillation process and participate in shochu tastings. On our tour, we not only tasted several splendid shochu varieties, but also purchased bottles to bring home with us. After tasting their superb products, you may well want to do the same.


Where to Stay on Iki Island

While Iki Island offers a variety of accommodations, one stands out as truly exceptional: the Iki Retreat Kairi Murakami by Onko Chishin. This exquisite ryokan, recognized in the Michelin Guide as a "5 Pavilion Ryokan," epitomizes luxury and tranquility.


As you approach, the rather mundane facade belies the breathtaking beauty that awaits within. Upon crossing the threshold, you're immediately enveloped in an atmosphere of refined elegance. The ryokan's design masterfully blends Japanese aesthetics with subtle Western influences, creating a harmonious space that feels both timeless and contemporary.

Every room at Iki Retreat Kairi Murakami boasts floor-to-ceiling windows that frame spectacular ocean vistas, making you feel as if you're suspended between earth and sky. The panoramic views encompass rugged cliffs, the vast expanse of the Genkai Sea, and the charming sight of small fishing boats dotting the horizon. This visual feast changes with the passage of time, offering a constantly evolving natural spectacle.

The ryokan's commitment to luxury is evident in every detail:

  • Private Onsen Experience: Each room features its own open-air bath filled with natural hot spring water, allowing guests to soak while gazing at the mesmerizing seascape.

  • Culinary Delights: The restaurant serves exquisite kaiseki cuisine, showcasing the island's finest seasonal ingredients and ancient flavors.

  • Impeccable Service: The staff's attentiveness and genuine hospitality elevate the guest experience to new heights.

  • Activities exclusive to guests, from sea kayaking, fishing, pottery making, traditional kite painting, firefly tours, and more.


A Sanctuary for the Senses

Iki Retreat Kairi Murakami is more than just a place to stay; it's a sanctuary that nourishes the body, mind, and soul. From the moment you arrive until your reluctant departure, you're treated to serenity and indulgence that lingers in your memory long after you've left.  After our four-night stay, our only thought was how quickly we could return. 

bottom of page